Sitting here watching a movie tonight listening to the sound of fireworks all night. It was the same yesterday. It's to celebrate Diwali – the five-day Hindu festival that is their equivalent to Christian's Christmas. Houses are strung with marigolds and lanterns and fireworks are let off. It is also a time of major gift-giving which makes the bombing attacks in the Indian markets even more disgusting – imagine someone bombing a shopping mall 3 days before Christmas in North America.
I even got a card from my apartment compound wishing me a Happy Diwali. Combined with the warm weather and nothing that is even remotely fall-like it makes Halloween, which is usually one of my favourite times of year, seem all the more removed. Although this weekend I went to a Halloween party held by one of the American expats here. There were over 150 people at his place. It was a pretty amazing set-up, African drummers, huge firepit, DJ, dry ice, costume prizes... Obviously as someone who has lived in Kenya for over 10 years, he misses Halloween too!
But despite missing these little events and family and friends, when I think that time is going by so fast here I am already missing Kenya and my life here. This feeling of wistfulness keeps things in perspective for me when I am going a little crazy about work or the way things are here. It's a good way to live – prevents me from complaining too much.
The only ones who will be complaining are my poor family and friends who will have to endure years of slide shows and stories about my time here. I'm brimming with photos and stories – and I'm only half done!!! Suckers!!!
I went to see a Kenyan play Thursday night. Called 'Roll Play' – it dealt with issues of racial tension between the black, white, and Indian population in Kenya. The unique aspect was that the characters were played by actors of different races. How do I explain this – like for example the main character was an old black Kenyan man who is in his last days reflecting on his life – and he is played by a white actor – his wife and daughter are also played by white actors. There are white Kenyans and Indian Kenyans played by black actors. Is this making sense? It was a fairly dramatic piece with a lot of tensions and issues addressed. It was interesting to sit in an audience comprised of these 3 backgrounds and hear the different reactions. To hear who laughed at what.
I really enjoyed it. It was a bit strange to see theatre here. I completely forgot that I was in Kenya. There aren't many venues for this kind of thing in the country. But it was very well done.
After going out for drinks someone brought up the recent Corruption Perceptions Index rankings where Kenya was listed as one of the most corrupt countries in the world. It has a similar score to D.R. Congo (formerly Zaire) and Sudan and has a worse score than places like Liberia and Iraq. (For the full list). Yikes. Oh Kenya, what are you doing? The worst part is that this ranking even comes amidst allegations that the Kenyan government has 'close ties' to the anti-corruption group and that their rating may not have been completely fair. Could Kenya have corrupt the anti-corruption squad? The people here deserve a better government than this.
On Sunday night I had a dream that I lent my day pack that attaches to my big pack to Dominic and Rebecca (my Canadian friends visiting from Uganda) but that they never gave it back to me so I had nothing to attach to my big pack and I was disappointed.
The next day I went into work and they head down town to get some things done and check out a few of Nairobi's attractions. It turns out they went out for lunch at a Chicken & Chips place (very common around here) and that Dominic put the backpack he borrowed from me on the floor under his chair while he was eating and when they got up to leave it was gone. ARGH. Why do people come to this city and instantly get robbed? Yet anyone I know who lives here has never had any instances like this? How will I ever get people to believe that Nairobi is a great and safe (if you are somewhat street smart) place to be?
My first reaction when they told me the news was of excitement that my dream came true and that I really am psychic. Thoughts of supplementing my income by having my own psychic hotline filled my head. My second thoughts were of disappointment in that Rebecca and Dominic will forever remember Nairobi as the place they got 'robbed'. Thirdly I just wanted my backpack back. Turns out that Dominic was carrying the pack but most of the things lost were Rebecca's or mine. Nothing expensive – no cameras or passports or money – just her guidebook, her umbrella, his shirt, her Nalgene water bottle, and my backpack.
But at least we all know now that I can see into the future. Right?! I promise to use my powers for good and not evil.
Yesterday I took the day off work and the 3 of us did a morning drive through Nairobi National Park. There are so many animals in that park – which is shocking considering how close it is to the city. The afternoon we bartered our way through the Maasai market and got some good deals. There was no more thieving although Dominic says he wants a t-shirt that says "I got robbed in Nairobbery". I'm trying not to take it personally. I just feel so protective of the city and its terrible reputation. I don't know why.
Friends from Canada are visiting. But they didn't have to journey very far to get here – they are in similar placements to mine but in Kampala, Uganda. It is so nice to see familiar faces from back home even though we only really met each other during our pre-departure training. I also love to hear their reactions to Nairobi and the comparisons to how they are getting on in Uganda. Even though I have been here for only 3 and a half months, I already don't even notice many of the things that go on around me any more.
Things they pointed out:
Sarit Centre – the mall where we met – they were surprised at the Western-style shopping mall and goods available. It is a big change from most of the rest of this part of Africa and most of Kenya as well – you normally would do your shopping in stalls on the side of the road, a market, or little shops in a commercial area.
My apartment compound – I hadn't pointed out which building I lived in yet when Dominic said – 'Is that a prison?!' and he was pointing to the compound I am in. I never really looked at it that way! But it has high walls surrounding it with barbed wire everywhere and the guards and the dog... OK, I guess the security is a little major but that is a necessity in Kenya. Uganda is much safer and they can even walk around at night there! They were also shocked at the rent prices – they pay about a quarter of what I do. But the fact that my apartment had a back up generator for the frequent power outages was seen as a bonus.
Security - They were quite surprised about all the security you have to go though in order to get into most buildings. Even when we went to Carnivore (the restaurant where you get to eat things like Crocodile and Camel and basically all the meat you can eat) – they were shocked when the driver had to open his trunk to check for bombs or hidden passengers in order to be allowed into the compound. I just shrug these things off because they happen so much (I get patted down and go through a metal detector before I am allowed into my French classes).
On Thursday after not enough sleep I woke and head off to do a hike at Gatamayu Forest in the Aberdares National Park (about an hour north of Nairobi). We were a little delayed in getting there. And when I say a little delayed, I mean we got lost about 10 times. There were some tense moments when our directionally-challenged navigator almost got himself punched in the head a few times! But we finally arrived and it was really beautiful, sunny and lush. We hiked down some muddy slopes to the falls and then along the river. Other than some stinging nettles that burned a little it was a nice hike. I'm happy to say that we DIDN'T see any elephants (despite the steaming piles of evidence that they were in the vicinity) because although you wouldn't think it - they are very dangerous animals if you don't have a car around you to protect you from them.
Having a Thursday off was strange. I went to work today and kept thinking that it was Monday. Tomorrow and Sunday are going to seem like such a bonus!!
Quick question - I am going to a Halloween party on Oct 28th and the theme is the Seven Deadly Sins. Any ideas?? Keep in mind there aren't really any costume stores here (and I HIGHLY doubt there is any glitter hair spray - but I could be mistaken).
Contributing to my exhaustion was another fun day of climbing on Saturday. It was a beginner climb so Elise and I were asked to help the organizers to help out showing the 'newbies' what to do. That was a bit strange! It was only a month ago that we were doing our first climbs. That night was a big party at a Mountain Club member's house. A late night of dancing and socializing.
I think I deserve to be able to go to bed at 8. I'll do my dishes in the morning.
Kenya grocery store Uchumi has a terrible selection (for better selection go to Nakumatt). But it's more convenient for me so I'm there all the time. You will find whole shelves (and sometimes almost half of a row of shelves) stocked with the same items (beans, maize flour, ketchup, beef stock, wheatabix and canned tuna all seem to be popular items at my Uchumi). But it makes for nice photos. Plus if you are ever in the mood for baked beans - you know where to go!!!
Ok, not me - these kids actually. That is the title of the program they are working on. Today I was lucky enough to attend a workshop in which a bunch of students and teachers came in to test out and give feedback on a new program we will be coordinating. It works to give kids computer skills while teaching them about everything from self-esteem, women's rights, human rights, safe sexual practices, and planning for the future.
You know, sometimes the situation here is pretty bleak. Some days it feels like everything is negative here - from the government to the crime to the violence to people's attitudes towards women etc and it is hard not to get pessimistic thinking that this country is stuck in a bad place and will never get out of it. Sometimes all you seem to read in the papers and hear from people tends to be horror stories. But it was a nice change today - hearing these kids amazing attitudes and enthusiasm really made my day. Today was a nice reminder that there is hope for Kenya.
Glad to hear most of you got your postcards. A few more will be sent out this week (sorry for the delay - it has been a busy couple of weeks).
Departure
My taxi came 40 minutes late to bring me to the bus depot. I was freaking out – totally thinking I would miss the bus. Upon my arrival I threw some money at the driver and ran off to find my bus as the departure time on the ticket said 11 and it WAS 11. I managed to forget one of my bags in the back of the taxi. Not very smart. I called the taxi frantically and retrieved my bag a few minutes later. Once breathlessly on the bus I sat, and sat, and sat. I forgot that we are on Kenya time and things move a little more slowly. We rolled out 30 minutes later.
Arrival in Mombasa
After a long night of bumpy roads (and surprisingly getting some sleep) – we pulled into Mombasa! It looks a lot like Nairobi – but perhaps more garbage (I find Nairobi to be pretty clean). To get to Tiwi Beach where I was staying I had to take a matatu from the bus depot to the ferry terminal. Took a ferry to Likoni. Took a matatu 30 minutes south to Tiwi. On the way we were pulled over at one of the many police checks. We were sitting for about 5 mintues when the police pulled out the handcuffs and cuffed the driver. We were ordered out of the matatu and the police hopped in with the driver & the tout and drove off. A new matatu came and picked us up shortly after. From there it was a short cab ride to the lodge. Then I changed into my bathing suit and went into hibernation mode on the white beach.
Tiwi Beach
My weekend consisted of me sleeping on the beach, eating good food (although no lobster this time), walking on the beach, walking around the reef & checking out the sea life, and swimming when I could (the tide was out for most of the day and there was a huge reef so it was difficult to get any “real” swimming done. It was quite nice and very relaxing.
On My Own
Travelling alone has it's pros and cons. It is funny how people tend to 'adopt' you if you are travelling alone. Asking you to eat dinner or drinks with them, seeing if you want to join them on their day's activities etc. It also allowed me the freedom to do whatever I wanted, whenever I wanted. It was not a dangerous place although I did leave my camera in my room when I went on some longer walks and if I was just going to be lying on the beach. And it is not always fun to have to ask strangers to take your photo – it kind of takes away from the spontaneity of it all.
Kathryn vs the Beach Boys
No, not the Help Me Rhonda guys. Along the coast there are a large number of 'Beach Boys' who approach you as you are walking down the beach, or sitting on the beach, or sometimes when you are even swimming – and try and sell you necklaces or snorkelling trips or massages etc. It doesn't sound that bad – until you get to the beach and you find you can't spend more than 2 seconds alone without one of these guys coming up to talk to you. Especially if you are walking down the beach (which I did on Sunday). They start up a conversation with you about where you are from, what your name is, how are you enjoying Kenya etc... Nice enough. But they just keep walking with you – even if you don't want to buy anything. I was starting to get annoyed as I was walking down the beach, hoping for some peace and it was like a conveyor belt of Beach Boys coming to chat with me and walk with me. It got to the point where I would tell them that I just came to the beach for peace and quiet and didn't want to talk to anyone so please leave me alone. That didn't really work. So I tried a new approach. I started pretending that I couldn't understand or speak English. 'Ooohhh.... no speaka englisha'. They would ask me if I spoke German (the majority of the tourists), or French. I would say, in my very worst broken English 'I shpeak Danishh – no speaka Englasha'. My “accent” consisted of a combination of a deaf person, a lisp and a Swedish-type accent – just to mix it up a bit. And it worked! I had such a hard time keeping a straight face. I would throw in a couple of actual Danish words once in a while for good measure. I spent the rest of the afternoon walking in peace – enjoying the sun and the gorgeous view. Who said that Danish is a useless language!?
Back from the coast! I haven't had a chance to write a proper entry as I've had pretty limited internet access but expect one soon (including the epic - "Kathryn vs the Beach Boys"). I had a nice time.
Hopefully Monday evening I'll post some lovely shots of me lying on the beach and swimming in the Indian Ocean. My goal of swimming in all the oceans of the world is one step closer. Now I just need to worry about those pesky Arctic and Antarctic Oceans. Might be a bit more tricky!
We have a long weekend here too. It's Moi Day on Monday. Too bad he was such a corrupt dude. Happy Thanksgiving to all you Canadians. Hopefully I'll be dining on some Thanksgiving LOBSTER!!!
Things about Nairobi that you stop noticing after a while:
Bars on all the windows
The constant honking (or hooting as they call it here)
The fact that you are one of the only non-Africans
The lack of air conditioning
Things about Nairobi that I can already tell I will miss:
The weather – although I complained about it initially – it is never very humid here, it is sunny and warm in the day and cooler in the evening – which allows for a great sleep at night.
Inexpensive & delicious fruit and vegetables
Inexpensive public transportation
The music. I'm mostly exposed to this in the matatus but everything from Reggae to R&B to some of the local-style music – it is great!
The food – there are some great restaurants that I love – Nyama Choma joints, the Indian restaurants, and the Ethiopian (probably one of my new favourite types of food)!!!
Inexpensive Tailors – pants hemmed for 50cents? How about making a brand new pair of pants for only a few dollars? I am going to try and take advantage of this service as much as possible before my departure!!
I am realizing that I am a bit of a compulsive list-maker. Yikes.
Postcards went out last week. The race is on. Free postcard of your choice for the first person to email me to tell me they got it!
Met someone at Mountain Club meeting tonight who used to live around the corner from me in Toronto on the Danforth. We talked about the old neighbourhood. Made me miss it a bit. Especially the tzatziki. I'm tearing up a bit!! Oh wait - that is just the memory of the lethal amount of garlic in that stuff!
3 months down. I wonder what will happen in the next 5 months?!?
How Kenyan English confuses me:
A conversation today between Timon (a frequent CSA contributor) and myself. I feel like half the time the conversations (despite their being in English) go completely over my head!
T: Hi! How are you?
Me: Good thanks, and you?
T: Good. Why did you say to get lost?
Me: What?
T: Why did you say to get lost?
Me: I'm sorry. I don't understand. When did I say that?
T: I mean, I never see you anywhere but at work!
Me: Ahh. Well, I'm always around.
T: It is lunch hour.
Me: Well, I eat at 2 usually.
T: You are going to disappear!!
In the News:
Robbery is taken very seriously here. Recently, a thief who stole 2 flash lights, 2 pangas (large machete type knives), a watch and 500 Kenyan shillings (about $8) was sentenced to DEATH because he did so with a dangerous weapon. No one was injured in the robbery and the stolen goods were worth under $25 in total.
Today I sat by the pool and read and swam. Not a bad way to spend a day. The weather has been great these past 2 weeks. I'm enjoying it as the "short rains" are coming soon. I'm hoping they live up to their name and take off as soon as they get here.